{"id":14014,"date":"2019-10-30T12:15:00","date_gmt":"2019-10-30T11:15:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/museutextil.cat\/sastreria\/"},"modified":"2025-07-08T16:03:34","modified_gmt":"2025-07-08T14:03:34","slug":"sastreria","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/museutextil.cat\/es\/sastreria\/","title":{"rendered":"Sastrer\u00eda"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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La lectura de El sastre de Panam\u00e1 de John Le Carr\u00e9, comentada en nuestro club de lectura Fil per randa<\/a>, nos ha llevado a profundizar en el mundo de la sastrer\u00eda, los m\u00e9todos de corte para ropa masculina y el oficio de sastre, motivo por el cual hemos querido exponer algunos documentos del fondo bibliogr\u00e1fico antiguo relacionados con este tema, la mayor\u00eda de los cuales se encuentran digitalizados en la MDC.<\/p>

Encontramos documentada ya en el siglo XIV la Confraria dels Sastres en Barcelona y los diferentes litigios que hab\u00eda entre los sastres, los peleteros y los ropavejeros, por los privilegios que ten\u00edan unos respecto a los otros a la hora de realizar diferentes tipos de ropa. Destacamos un documento en lat\u00edn de alegaciones presentadas por los sastres contra los peleteros, en la ciudad de Barcelona en 1676. Additio pro confratria sartorum civit Barsinone contra sindicos eiusdem civitatis, et confratriae palleriorum<\/a>. Barcinone, 1676 o post.<\/p>

El documento Per lo procurador fiscal del General de Catalunya y lo syndich de la Confraria de Mestres Pallers de la present ciutat de Barcelona, contra lo syndich de la Confraria dels Mestres Sastres de la mateixa ciutat<\/a>… publicado en Barcelona alrededor de 1701, es otro ejemplo de los numerosos pleitos que se presentaban dada la variedad de oficios relacionados con el traje. Reclamaban delimitar las tareas de unos y otros, y establecer para todos los mismos ex\u00e1menes para ejercer de sastre y poder llegar a obtener el grado de maestro.<\/p>

En 1845 quedan aprobadas las ordenanzas por las cuales se establec\u00eda la creaci\u00f3n en Barcelona de la Sociedad de Sastres, bajo la invocaci\u00f3n de Santa Mar\u00eda Magdalena. Se expone dicho documento, publicado en Barcelona el 12 de enero de 1845: Sociedad de Socorros M\u00fatuos denominada Sociedad de Sastres, establecida en Barcelona bajo la invocaci\u00f3n de Santa Maria Magdalena<\/a>.<\/p>

Desde el punto de vista legal, tambi\u00e9n encontramos documentaci\u00f3n legislativa que regulaba la manera de vestir tanto de hombres com de mujeres. Se trata de disposiciones reales que se publicaban para prohibir el uso de determinadas piezas de vestir y su no cumplimiento era sancionado. En el caso de la indumentaria masculina, mostramos la Prem\u00e1tica en que se manda guardar lo prove\u00eddo por un cap\u00edtulo de las Cortes, del a\u00f1o de ochenta y seis: en que se prohibi\u00f3 que los hombres no puedan traer en los cuellos, ni en pu\u00f1os, guarnici\u00f3n alguna, ni almid\u00f3n, ni gomas, ni filetes: sino sola la lechuguilla de olanda, o lienzo, con una, o dos vaynillas, y se declara que sean de un dozavo de vara de medir, y que las vaynillas y filetes no sean de color sino blancas: y se acrecientan las penas contra los que excedieren. Madrid: Pedro Madrigal, 1594.<\/p>

Los primeros libros de sastrer\u00eda publicados en Espa\u00f1a que se conservan datan del siglo XVI, y siguiendo las reglas de la geometr\u00eda como ciencia precisa, desglosaban cada una de las piezas que formaban el traje, daban instrucciones sobre como reducir la tela, su disposici\u00f3n para cortarla e indicaban la unidad de medida usada. Uno de estos tratados es el que exponemos de Mart\u00edn de And\u00fajar, publicado en Madrid, por la Imprenta del Reyno, en 1640: Geometria y trazas pertenecientes al oficio de sastres : donde se contiene el modo y orden de cortar todo genero de vestidos<\/a>.<\/p>

En el siglo XIX se publicaron muchos tratados de sastrer\u00eda donde cada sastre dejaba por escrito sus conocimientos y sus m\u00e9todos de corte. Un ejemplo es el Manual del sastre : m\u00e9todo te\u00f3rico-pr\u00e1ctico para el corte y confecci\u00f3n de toda clase de vestidos civiles, militares y eclesi\u00e1sticos<\/a> del sastre Ces\u00e1reo Hernando de Pereda, publicado en 2 vol\u00famenes, en Madrid, el a\u00f1o 1883. Se expone el volumen I.<\/p>

La muestra podr\u00e1 verse en la biblioteca del Museu T\u00e8xtil de lunes a viernes de 9.30 a 14.00h, y tambi\u00e9n las tardes de los jueves de 16.00 a 19.00h, hasta mediados de diciembre.<\/p>

El acceso a la biblioteca es con cita previa: biblioteca@cdmt.cat<\/a> \/ tel. 93.731.52.02.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La lectura de El sastre de Panam\u00e1 de John Le Carr\u00e9, comentada en nuestro club de lectura Fil per randa, nos ha llevado a profundizar en el mundo de la sastrer\u00eda, los m\u00e9todos de corte para ropa masculina y el oficio de sastre, motivo por el cual hemos querido exponer algunos documentos del fondo bibliogr\u00e1fico […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6242,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[132,137],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14014","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog-es","category-documentos-singulares"],"yoast_head":"\nSastrer\u00eda - 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